Trip Reports

Elbrus 16th - 28th August '14

Written by Leader Adele Pennington, September 2014

Summary Report Elbrus 16th August 2014.

After two days of fighting the heat in Pitagorsk; Victor and I were ready to return to Elbrus with the new team fresh from the UK. The customary beer and pizza was snatched for lunch before a kit check and briefing. Having Dennis and Roxanne (fluent in the Russian lingo) made communication easier but Victor was still adamant to choose our evening meal when we had a grand gathering in the evening with John Armstrong's team and Alexy for some Russian cuisine.

The morning arrived all too soon and we set off in the 4x4's for the North side base camp. Crossing the river this time was not so easy and we decided that a short walk to the footbridge would be safer than trying to evacuate a drowning vehicle. The tension grew as we watched our drivers test the vehicles to their limit through the swollen river. Pleased to be reunited with our bags we soon settled into camp and were treated to an excellent lunch by Uri (the snow Leopard), and our young third guide. Walking down to the healing waters was a good start but the bathing was for men only and our boys developed some sudden shyness when it came to sharing a bath with some very hairy Russians.

The next day we loaded our rucksacks with anything that could be stowed under rocks and set off with our first load to 3300m. As usual some members got carried away with the construction of their secret hideaway but everything was good for acclimatisation before heading down via the Mushroom rocks. Once back in camp there was time for an afternoon nap before another serving of buck wheat.

Deciding to move up to high camp in the morning we left camp in rather inclement weather but the forecast for our future summit day looked promising so it was only our clothes that were dampened and not our spirits. Passing by our stash we reached high camp in good time and chose our accommodation. Most of us went for the light and airy hut whilst Victor, Paul, Andy and Dave were perhaps a little more thoughtful of their sleeping quarters. To occupy ourselves we carried water, did ongoing hut repairs and played the odd game of mafia. The bed time banter was reminiscent of school trips as were the nervous giggles of the girls on the top bunks who were closer than comfort to the plastic sheeting that was our roof.

After picking up our stashed kit and some glacier practice it was time for our acclimatisation day. It could only be said that it was a perfect day and if only we had been acclimatised we could have grabbed Europe's highest mountain. Returning back to camp after reaching our target height of 4800m was still an 8 hr day and an altitude record for Dave.

Now time to rest before our summit push, we gathered weather forecasts from the UK and Ukraine. These being less than perfect we lay in hope as the get up time grew closer. Clear skies indicated a green light and we set off in three rope teams. It was not long before the Southerly wind strengthened and the spindrift decreased visibility to just a few feet. Not wanting to give up we pushed on, blown around and battered until we could seek some refuge behind the first of the Lenz rocks. Already wearing our duvet jackets and goggles to push on further in these conditions would have been ridiculous and dangerous. Making the call to return to high camp we descended relieved to have the wind behind us but disappointed that our first summit day was over.

Back to bed for 8am we had no doubt that we had made the right decision as the weather worsened. By mid day we were making plans to try again at midnight. Desperately trying to seek more information about the weather we rang friends far and wide. The information seemed promising; 25km winds and clear until mid day. Only a few members felt they had enough energy to try again. As we tried to rest the winds grew and we wondered if our hut would in fact stay attached to the mountain. Trying to sleep, the hours passed and the winds dropped for a while teasing us into anticipation of the summit. By midnight the howling wind was back. Victor and I struggled outside and tried to walk towards the glacier. Unable to progress more than a few meters without being blown over we both knew there was no safe chance of summiting today. No explanation was needed when I returned to the hut and we all turned over for more sleep. Having discussed Plan X it was now going to be executed.

Up early we packed everything and descended to base camp and returned to Pitagorsk for a good nightís sleep and something different to buck wheat to eat. Refreshed in the morning but still with an uncertain forecast we drove the three hours to Terskol and took uplift back to 3700m. Taking up refuge in the barrels it was time to say our prayers to the weather gods. Again at 1am we rose and prepared ourselves for what Elbrus was going to give us. The CAT journey up to 4700m was in silence as we could hear and see the windís affect. Heads down with Victor out in front we pursued our goal. The wind strong but manageable there was no time to take photos and only quick stops for fuel and water were taken. It was emotional and exhausting but by 10am there were 8 members of the Jagged Globe Team on the top. For some this summit experience only lasted seconds as Victor and I were weary of the weather coming in. The descent was exciting and torturous for some but it was only a few hours before we were back and returning for Elbrus beer and kebabs.

Yet another amazing effort by a Jagged Globe Team. Well done everyone and a special thanks to Victor. « Previous report | Next report »

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