Elbrus and Kazbek

Overview

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A superb combination of mountains - acclimatise on Mount Kazbek prior to climbing Elbrus

Introduction

Located in the Russian Caucasus, at 5,642m Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe and the second most attainble of the Seven Summits after Kilimanjaro. Mount Kazbek (5,033m) is less well-known and is situated 200Km further east, on the border between Russia and Georgia. It is an attractive mountain in its own right and it can also serve as excellent acclimatisation for climbers wishing to summit Elbrus. One of the issues with climbing Elbrus is that there are few suitable peaks nearby to acclimatise on. This means that there is a temptation to try for the summit having only had a few nights sleeping above 3,000m. The ascent of Kazbek from the northern, Russian side is a remote climb, utilising two camps above base camp, the highest being on rock at 4,150m. The route to the summit follows an easy-angled glacier and is excellent training for Elbrus (which we also climb from the North on this expedition, as we think this route is more attractive than the busier southern route.

The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office currently advise against "all but essential" travel to the Elbrus Region. Jagged Globe is offering an expedition to Elbrus in July 2014. Whilst it is now possible to obtain travel insurance for this climb, those who choose to join our team must read the FCO advice and accept the risks associated with travelling here. Please note, we have designed our itinerary based on our own experience of the north side of the mountain and the team will be led by a Jagged Globe leader. We are are not re-selling a Russian agent's standard Elbrus package, many of which are two days shorter than our climb. Russian mountain guides will assist the team, team members need to carry their own personal gear above base camp.

Join us on Elbrus and Kazbek

• A brilliant way to climb Elbrus, by acclimatising elsewhere first (due to the topography, it's hard to acclimatise in the immediate vicinity of Elbrus)
• A unique trip that visits a rarely-climbed route on Kazbek and overall packs in a lot of mountaineering
• On Elbrus, you avoid the cable cars and chairlifts on the busier southern route
• All permit fees included in the price
• Russian mountain guides provide flexibility on summit day
• Jagged Globe plans and leads expeditions to all of the Seven Summits and we first climbed Elbrus in 1992 (staff in our office have recent experience of the Northern route)

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Tailor Made Trips

We can organise this expedition on a ‘tailor-made’ private basis for groups of friends, families, clubs, charities or any other group. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates. We will then send you a quote, with no obligation.

Experience Required

Places on the Elbrus and Kazbek expedition are available for mountaineers who have completed alpine routes of PD, or have climbed Scottish Grade II. You also need scrambling experience, as the route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves scrambling, often on loose ground. Above base camp you will need to carry your own personal equipment and some food, as porterage is limited.

To join this expedition and have a good chance of success you need:

• To have completed scrambles of Grade 2 or 3
• To have climbed routes graded Alpine PD in the Alps, or Scottish Grade II in Scotland
• A good level of fitness and ability to carry a 18Kg pack
• A willingness to participate in expedition duties

Our Winter Mountaineering course in Scotland or our Alpine Techniques - Level 2 course would be ideal preparation for this trip.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please phone +44 (0)114 276 3322 or contact us.

Know Before You Go

Jagged Globe supports the British Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) ‘Know Before You Go’ campaign. We recommend that you read the FCO Travel Advice for Russia on the FCO Website.

What the price includes

• Economy class return airfares from the UK to Vladikavkaz and returning from Mineralne Vody (unless Land Only).
• UK airport taxes.
• All road transport between Mineralne Vody and base camp by private vehicles.
• 2 nights' hotel accommodation in Piatigorsk (including 1 dinner, 2 lunches and 1 breakfast).
• 9 nights' camping on a full board basis.
• 4 nights' mountain hut accommodation on a full board basis.
• Porterage to base camp on Kazbek.
• All porterage costs for group equipment on Elbrus.
• All costs for Jagged Globe leader, Russian guides and local helpers.
• Jagged Globe kitbag or lightweight fleece.

What the price does not include

• Visa fees.
• Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.
• Hotel nights/transfers in Moscow if flight arrangements necessitate overnights there.
• Hotel nights in Piatigorsk in the event of returning from the mountains early.
• Bar bills and laundry.
• Travel insurance.
• Farewell meal in Piatigorsk.
• Optional trips and sightseeing tours.
• Tips.

Insurance

You will need a travel insurance policy that caters for the activities you will undertake on your trip with Jagged Globe. It is a requirement of our booking conditions that you have such a policy. For a list of insurers who specialise in mountaineering, trekking and skiing, please see our Travel Insurance page »

Itinerary

Here is an outline itinerary for this trip. A more detailed day-to-day itinerary is available as a downloadable PDF »

Outline Itinerary

Day 1 - 2:	Fly to Vladikavkaz via Moscow On arrival at Vladikavkaz, you transfer 100km by gravel road to the village of Tmenikau (1,900m) in the Karmadon Valley. The views of the mountains from the village are impressive. Overnight camp.
Day 3:	Trek to base camp (2,300m) It is a 12km walk to base camp. Pack animals will be used to carry the group equipment. Overnight camp.
Day 4:	Climb to Camp 1 (3,400m) Scrambling over dry glacier and loose scree to reach Camp 1 after 6 hours. Overnight camp.
Day 5:	Climb to Camp 2 (4,150m) A rocky path winds its way up to Camp 2 on a plateau, just below the wet glacier (3 - 4 hours). Overnight camp.
Day 6:	Acclimatisation at Camp 2
Day 7:	Summit day It is typically a 9-hour day to the summit and back. You walk across easy-angled glacier then make a rising traverse with the final slopes to the summit being approximately 40°. From the summit you descend back to Camp 2. Overnight camp.
Day 8:	Spare day In case of bad weather. Overnight camp.
Day 9:	Descend to base camp Time to relax your muscles in the hot springs after the rigours of the climb! Overnight camp.
Day 10:	Transfer to Piatigorsk Descend to Tminkau where you meet your vehicles. From here you drive 40Km to Vladikavkaz, then a further 250km to to Piatigorsk. Overnight hotel.
Day 11:	Drive to Hathansu Meadow (2,500m) It's a 100Km drive to base camp on the north side of the mountain. The roads start off as surfaced, then gravel, then dirt and deteriorate the closer we get to base camp. Overnight camp.
Day 12:	Walk to North Hut (3,760m) Overnight hut.
Day 13:	Acclimatisation on upper slopes of Elbrus Overnight hut.
Day 14:	Ascent of Mount Elbrus (5,642m) Overnight hut.
Day 15:	Spare day In case of bad weather. Overnight hut or camp.
Day 16:	Descend to base camp Overnight camp.
Day 17:	Return to Piatigorsk In the evening we will have a celebratory meal. Overnight hotel.
Day 18:	Transfer to Mineralne Vody. Flight departures It is possible to arrive back into the London the same day on flights that depart Mineralne Vody in the early afternoon.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The Expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset!

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